Cooking in Michigan

Libby Klesmith explored Hemingway's experiences with fresh food from farm, field, and stream, creating a collection of vintage northern Michigan recipes, including his father's blueberry pie, "Auntie Beth" Dilworth's Tomato Pudding, and Nick Adams' Beans and Spaghetti.

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Hemingway Helper:
Cooking in Northern Michigan with Ernest,
his Family, and Friends

As with many families, the Hemingways enjoyed their meals and valued them as an important part of life. They shared their dinners frequently with family and friends, turning the meals into events. The children learned to work for their meals, but often were given treats on special occasions. During their summers in northern Michigan, the Hemingways learned to hunt and grow their own food, as well as to prepare it. Because of this, Michigan summers for Ernest Hemingway and his family were rich in every meaning of the word: smells, companions, experiences and tastes.

Preparing for the Cottage:

For the Hemingways, vacationing in Northern Michigan every summer was a great treat. They prepared for their trip ahead of time: Dr. Clarence Hemingway, Ernest Hemingway’s father, created shopping lists every year composed of staples like flour, sugar, slab bacon, chocolate, spices, ham, candy, cocoa and cookies. He ordered all of these items from the Montgomery Ward catalogue and had them delivered to the family cottage, Windemere, on the eastern shore of Walloon Lake. Sunny, Ernest’s younger sister, remembered in her memoirs having the choice of peppermints or marshmallows and receiving rewards of candy for jobs well done (Hemingway Miller, 21). Gingersnaps, in particular, were a favorite among the children.

Kitchen/Cooking Set Up:

The kitchen in Windemere included a wood burning stove with range, and a pump that brought fresh well water right into the kitchen. Family meals were very important to the Hemingways, especially to Dr. Hemingway. After Ursula, the Hemingway’s third child, was born, the family added an entire kitchen wing to the cottage. This wing included a screened in dining area, big enough for all of the family to get together and share a meal (Federspiel).

To keep the perishables from perishing, the Hemingways built an icehouse across the lake from Windemere. Harold Sumner, a neighbor, stocked the icehouse during the winter with ice cut from Walloon Lake. In the summer, Ernest and his family brought that ice across the lake to Windemere for use in an icebox kept under the trees.

Ernest’s Father on Food:  

Dr. Hemingway thought that food could fix almost everything. He loved to cook; in fact, he once prided himself on making his family happy by baking multiple blueberry pies in a single morning (Mellow, 39). He soaked cucumbers in brine to make pickles for his family, made pancakes and often took over for the family’s cooks (Hemingway Miller, 65). Dr. Hemingway also cared about nutrition. He fed his children fresh vegetables and meat broths when they were still babies and insisted that anything not eaten the night before had to be consumed at breakfast the next day (Mellow, 13).

Ernest’s Father on Self-Sufficiency and its Impact on Ernest Throughout his Life:

Ernest’s sister Marcelline said that her father often exhibited “pioneer resourcefulness” (Redd Griffin). One time when the family was running low on supplies, Dr. Hemingway, whom the children called Ed after his middle name, Edward, shot partridge and squirrels and made biscuits, fried game and blackberry pie (Redd Griffin). This pioneer mentality, in part, created Ernest’s love of fishing and the outdoors.

Ernest learned from his father how to understand his surroundings. He taught Ernest to hunt, shoot, skin, clean and cook what he killed. Dr. Hemingway even blindfolded Ernest to see if he could identify cooked game solely by taste (Redd Griffin). Dr. Hemingway also insisted that what ever was killed was eaten. When Ernest was thirteen years